Some photos with comments which might be helpful - but obviously,to remove the air filter it would make sense to have another close look at this video again:
Each side panel at the top only gets held in place by one screw, and two pins. To get access to the screws, the box needs to b opened:
To remove the four pins at the inside of the steering column, the center piece on each pin needs to be pressed inwards with slight force, until in "clicks", and moved down about 4 mm - then the pins can be removed easily by hand:
Once the one screw and two pins have been removed at each panel, the side panels can be pulled backwards to remove:
The pins are a bit "tricky", and need some patience. To re-install the pins, the two "legs" at the outside need to be forced away from each other, while the center pin needs to be pressed upwards:
Ready for re-installation:
The little plastic "lever" at the wire connection needs to be pressed down, in order to remove the connection:
I might forward more photos in future.
Last Edit: Jan 29, 2015 20:08:26 GMT 2 by EcoRider
Kappa Touring Screen, SW Motech Crash Bars, Raptor Desert Fox Spotlights, SW Motech spotlight Mounting Brackets, SW Motech Center Stand, Givi E370 Top Box with Light Kit, Givi Back Rest for Top Box, Dzell Radiator Guard (aluminium), Dzell Side Stand Expansion Plate. Modified BMC Air Filter, Dimple magnetic oil Drain Plug, Seat Saint, Givi V35 Panniers, DIY chain Oiler, “Sit & Fly” type seat cover, Hand Guards, Highway foot Pegs, Adjustable wind deflector.
I'm sticking with the BMC, just not going to pay Honda -off prices. My BMC strangely is the std one. No mention of race anywhere on mine .... Go figure
I'm sticking with the BMC, just not going to pay Honda -off prices.
+1.
To my mind, they are simply ruining a brilliant bike's reputation.
I agree, i had the same conversation with the service adviser at Honda, when i had to replace an indicator for R1800 (which the nuckle head who clipped me paid for). I dont mind if they charge say +10 to 20% on aftermarket, but 10,000% (aftermarket is R120 for a pair!) mark-up seems like robbery to me, and as you say, downgrading the reputation of a very economical bike.
Well I have had enough of the attitude to pricing for service parts, will definitely be sourcing my own plugs, hopefully from Auto zone, but went ahead and got the k&n, on their site you can get a list of distributors in south Africa as well as those who stock the part, got from ATS in bergbron, for just over R900, fitment will be tomorrow (might even sprinkle some dust on it)
Well the deed has been done, a big thank you to eskom for giving me the opportunity. Many thanks to all the guys before me on this thread sharing their experiences and helping to make it so easy. The nice thing with the oe filter is two clips, one on either side to help seat the filter correctly, that being said I had no issues putting in the k&n, so now it's just a case of seeing how it goes. I have no expectation for greater performance, just a cost exercise, everything else will be a bonus! I do find it sad that the computers apparently cannot handle the extra airflow, the situation of the air box seems primed to me to add more breathing holes? I was also really surprised that the air ducts on the sides, which I had always assumed to be ram scoops for the air box, are in fact blanked off showy bits. Having read about one NC that did a serious off road tour i n the United states with some much bigger more purpose built machines, and certainly held its own, and the high altitude ability much lauded over as it's an injection machine compared to some of those with a carb, I do wonder if improving airflow is really not possible?
Keep us posted pls. How many km on the original filter? Perhaps keep it and compare the new filter. I for one will stick to the standard filter for now....
Here are the pics from the two filters, side by side, front and back. have done 21000km on the original. It is always so very difficult to compare initially as, you are taking an old clogged filter and replacing it with a clean one. There is definitely a big jump in performance, pull-offs are much more rapid, gear changes were smoother from startup, and even at high rev's (was running late this morning, so had to push her a bit), can see how fuel consumption will be better just by the feel. I normally operate in the 27-31km/L range, will see how the next few tanks turns out.
I am also going to look at improving airflow/intake to the air-filter box, if the computer on these machines is capable of adapting between 13,000ft and sea-level, i am sure that increased air volume to the filter at our altitude (6000ft) in JNB, will be well within its capabilities.
Murray, if I may ask - are the the K & N filters available locally, and if so, at what price are they selling for ? If your K&N filter has been imported privately, what is the total cost on a private import ?
By the way, The BMC on my NCX also makes quite a big difference as far as performance is concerned.
Man, nou hol hy lekker.......seker amper soos n '750.
But honestly, I think K & N is the way to go...
Kappa Touring Screen, SW Motech Crash Bars, Raptor Desert Fox Spotlights, SW Motech spotlight Mounting Brackets, SW Motech Center Stand, Givi E370 Top Box with Light Kit, Givi Back Rest for Top Box, Dzell Radiator Guard (aluminium), Dzell Side Stand Expansion Plate. Modified BMC Air Filter, Dimple magnetic oil Drain Plug, Seat Saint, Givi V35 Panniers, DIY chain Oiler, “Sit & Fly” type seat cover, Hand Guards, Highway foot Pegs, Adjustable wind deflector.
Yes, they are available locally, got mine from ATS in Bergbron, GP. this link on the K&N website, is cool, you do a search by country and even by part number (HA-7012), and I got 4 results, I suppose you could leave that out, and find a dealer, and ask them to get for you? www.knfilters.com/search/dealersearch.aspx I paid just over R900 for mine. from the K&N website it has a price of $105, so more expensive to import I would guess.
He he, well it certainly feels like it! Although on the serious side, considering I spend easily 90%+ of my time commuting, and thats what the filter looked like, if you want to keep your performance and fuel economy... a re-useable filter is the way to go for sure, as I will be cleaning mine before every service rather than replacing every second service.
After 4000 km I decided to open the air filter housing, for proper inspection. The filter itself still appeared to be clean, but I discovered some dust at the bottom of the air filter housing:
I started fabricating a modification to the BMC filter some time ago, and this mod has now been installed to the filter as well:
Not very professional, but hopefully it works:
Kappa Touring Screen, SW Motech Crash Bars, Raptor Desert Fox Spotlights, SW Motech spotlight Mounting Brackets, SW Motech Center Stand, Givi E370 Top Box with Light Kit, Givi Back Rest for Top Box, Dzell Radiator Guard (aluminium), Dzell Side Stand Expansion Plate. Modified BMC Air Filter, Dimple magnetic oil Drain Plug, Seat Saint, Givi V35 Panniers, DIY chain Oiler, “Sit & Fly” type seat cover, Hand Guards, Highway foot Pegs, Adjustable wind deflector.