The wife and I hit the road, at about 9am on saturday the 19th March. After a hearty breakfast, and final packing, we are on our way. The plan, was head down the N1 to Kroonstad, then head off towards Ladybrand, and around to Ficksburg, for our overnight. Sadly we had to amend the route slightly, passing through Clocolan instead.
Clocolan was having its annual fete day which we had to skirt, as we were running a bit behind schedule by that time. The trip had been beautiful, the weather playing along perfectly, the traffic light, and easy. And once off the N1, and into the country side, the overcoat of sh*t that we all wear (work stress etc), started to crack, and peel off, so by the time we hit Clocolan, we were both in a much better head space, the clear fresh air, soaking up the views along the way… also helps that the road between Marquad and Clocolan has been re-tarred, so it is much more pleasant, and the scenery we were rewarded with was spectacular. We stopped off at some of the country shops along the way, before hitting the final stretch into Ficksburg.
We unpacked the bikes on arriving, and settled down for a nice dinner and a few . Did a bit of planning for the next day, making sure we had all in order, as we were crossing the border heading to Katse Dam for the day, to have a lunch, then back to Ficksburg the afternoon. Be sure that before you do the trip, that if you want to do the tour of the Dam, you have the times (this can be arranged through the Orion Katse Lodge).
Day 2
The next morning we hit the border post at about 9, full of anticipation for the day ahead, we’d read about the scenery, the corners (apparently 728 to Katse, although not sure where they started that count), and the kids. Required for the border crossing are of course road legal bike, border letter (if bike i financed), licence document showing ownership, emergency triangle, and your passport. We only needed the passport. Once across the bridge there is a R30 toll to be paid before you progress to the passport control office. Through the Ficksburg crossing, this can only be paid cash (which of course required us to take a walk to the nearest ATM, about 200m) . So once all this is done we headed off through the town towards the mountains.
There are plenty of taxis about, although they are normal cars, not our bigger coffin types. But there are plenty and, share as similar driving style. Once we had started up the valley which leads to the Mafika Lisiu Pass, there is a constant vigilance required for obstructions in the road, goats, donkeys, cars, people, and pretty much anything else you might expect, or not for that matter. Along the way there are some spectacular views, stopping is a real challenge, as the kids pop up out o f no where, and swamp you on the bike. Sadly they are not friendly for the most part, they simply shove their hands in your direction followed by ‘give me money!’. This put us off very quickly, coupled with ‘gangs’ that if they see you coming, will pelt you with good size stones/rocks if you don’t give them money. Most of them are about 3-6 years old. So we just slowly wound our way up the through the seemingly endless village, only glancing at the views until we hit the boom, which controls access to the highest botanical garden, after which you are free and safe to stop at will (almost).
Once into the garden, there was evidence of frequent rock falls, which either leave large, or very small fine debris, and then of course the divers in the tar. The tar condition is actually pretty good, but don't expect to do more than 40-50 km/h on average.
Waterfall once into the garden A quick moment of peace for photos before going into the botanical garden, the arrow indicates where you crest the pass... A panorama of the whole valley (well mostly)
And so we wound our way up, and up, climbing almost 10,000ft (1000m). Unbeknownst to me at some time in the past (since my last service) the radiator fan had died, and separated itself from its motor, this caused an overheat, which forced a snack break. Time to reflect on the view, and on the lack of power in the bike. I have frequently seen the big GS’s blast past me on the highway on long trips, and this was the first time i felt i missed the extra power, i tried to over take a car, which was travelling slower than my mind altering 40-50, but it was like one of those comical scenes from a minions movie, where you drop 2 gears floor, it…….. and nothing really happens, it was very funny, even at the time.
a view back down the valley and still we go up, and up, and up
After the break, which we took at the big hair pin, as it turns out, just below the peak and view point. This small blessing saved us from another group of locals, although these were not kids this time, but were sitting behind the retaining wall at the peaks view point.
a mind bending panorama photo of the hair pin the snack, and proof of my bikes excitement to be out in the 'wild'
Luckily, with the altitude (which might make you a bit light headed..), the low revving nature of the NC, and the simple awesomeness of the bike, my busted fan had no other impact or consequence on the rest of our trip. After heading along the top of the mountain, you then head down into the next valley. Just below the crest of which is a visitors centre, being a sunday we found the place quite deserted, so we decided to take the opportunity to take a quick photo in to the next valley before heading on. At which point someone popped up, asking us to step into the the office to pay, despite everything being closed, we had to pay to take a photo. We politely declined, head out of the parking, and took one from what turned out to be a better vantage point.
Down into the next valley we dropped, virtually none of the corners on these roads have more than a meters run off, and no barriers, so stay sharp!, Rather stop to look at the view, for fear of becoming a near permanent part of it!
We eventually met the dam, after having been up and down passes and valleys that would have made jack and his beanstalk exploits jealous! The road, I must iterate again is in good condition, the surface is textured to improve grip, but over time that texture also becomes part of the problem, and my Michelin PR4’s were frequently squirrelling and fighting for grip, so you just settle down and take it easy through the corners.
You spend about 40km’s next to the dam, crossing over at one point, and no, you don’t cross the dam wall, its a bridge about 2/3rd’s of the way ‘down’ the dam, just after the pumping tower, and guess what, after that you climb again. as you can see from the photos, we were so lucky with the weather and air clarity, and there was a stiff breeze for most of the trip in the mountains, and dam, and back.
Eventually you drop down another impressive valley and stretch of road, which is used by some taxis (like ours this time) as a practice track for their F1 aspirations! We went past the side of the dam wall, awestruck by its height, and how much water was actually still in the dam, despite thinking it looked a bit low. But seriously, after over 4 hours on the passes and turns, we were eager to get to the lodge for, yeah, you guessed it, another snack. And to alleviate the numb bum. The Lodge sits at the point of a headland which is home to a compound which must have been built for the original builders/engineers of the dam. The wind pumps across the water, leaving these beautiful trails on the surface. The lodge is not spectacular, but in nice, cozy, and honest, with a bit of an old world feel to it. A couple of toasted sandwiches, and cokes cost about R160.
If you want to know what the scottish highlands are like on a nice day, this is a good place to be to get that feeling. the barren beautiful landscape is very humbling indeed.
the wind on the water, and the barren beauty another crazy panorama
Before our story takes us back to Ficksburg, here are some screen shots from a helmet cam i had on for parts of the trip, they show turns everywhere!, and the condition of the road, with the gravel, and holes etc, this despite the fact that the tar is good.
Apologies for the dumbed down resolution of the screen shots, had the camera on the wrong setting, so the files were bigger than needed to be for the resolution
The return stint from the lodge, was a bit quicker, not having to stop as much for the photo opportunities, but none the less spectacular. Having had a sighter on the way in we could also play a little bit more with the bikes, but hardly MotoGP stuff! The shadows were impressively deep, which kept us honest as well. So aside from a few stops, to look at the dam properly, the obligatory pass proof photo, and then one of the valley again from the hair pin (which was now pumping an absolute shocker of a wind, so much so, i could barely keep the bike from tipping over, with both feet planted). We kept up a steady pace, and had a wonderful, and tiring trip back out of the mountains. During my wobbly photo at the hair pin, i noticed, a taxi (one like ours) reversing up the road, but thought nothing of it. We had seen a couple the morning stopped at the side of the road loading up stones. Low and behold, we saw him not much later, still reversing! The rather challenging pass going up normally was being done in reverse (only in Africa). As we carried on down the side of the valley we came across a group of cars, about 4 or 5, parked on the side side, busy depositing their cargo of people, donning helmets, and getting ready, wait for it….
to head down the road on skate boards! Talk about big brass ones.
the afternoon sun shone beautifully on the road, and river down the valley, showing what a trip it is the dam wall, and how full the dam really is
. Did a bit of planning for the next day, making sure we had all in order, as we were crossing the border heading to Katse Dam for the day, to have a lunch, then back to Ficksburg the afternoon. Be sure that before you do the trip, that if you want to do the tour of the Dam, you have the times (this can be arranged through the Orion Katse Lodge). 
. So once all this is done we headed off through the town towards the mountains. 
Most of them are about 3-6 years old. So we just slowly wound our way up the through the seemingly endless village, only glancing at the views until we hit the boom, which controls access to the highest botanical garden, after which you are free and safe to stop at will (almost). 
We went past the side of the dam wall, awestruck by its height, and how much water was actually still in the dam, despite thinking it looked a bit low. But seriously, after over 4 hours on the passes and turns, we were eager to get to the lodge for, yeah, you guessed it, another snack. And to alleviate the numb bum. 
The Lodge sits at the point of a headland which is home to a compound which must have been built for the original builders/engineers of the dam. The wind pumps across the water, leaving these beautiful trails on the surface. The lodge is not spectacular, but in nice, cozy, and honest, with a bit of an old world feel to it. A couple of toasted sandwiches, and cokes cost about R160. 
As we carried on down the side of the valley we came across a group of cars, about 4 or 5, parked on the side side, busy depositing their cargo of people, donning helmets, and getting ready, wait for it….
Talk about big brass ones. 
