Hi EcoRider, Thanks for the reply and your input. I will definitely take my time doing the job. I always believe, if you're going to do a job, take your time and do it properly. I thought of 1st giving the engine (and tappet cover area) a good jet-spray clean before starting. Also, I thought of using Locktite when putting the tappet cover bolts back. That way I won't have to tighten them too much, but yet I'll know they won't turn out either.
Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes, and post my results (if the tappets are out).
Okay, so I decided to check my valves yesterday, as I had the day off...
So I took my time, and ended up spending about 4hrs doing the job. "What a waste of time" it actually was. All my valves were within spec. Slightly loose, but still within spec. I did, however, give them all a little tightening and tried to make sure that they were all equally tight.
Decided to change the oil as well. I found a "new" oil that I didn't know they made.
I got this in a 15W - 50 , Semi-Synthetic.
So I thought, summer is coming, let me give this a try.
Okay, so maybe it's just my imagination, or maybe it was thee slight valve adjustments I did. But I find my motor running just a little bit smoother, and my gear changes seem a little better. The "clunck" sound isn't as bad anymore.
I hope that this oil won't effect my DCT box thou. I know you should avoid Full-synthetic in a DCT.
1.. Just have another close look at the video clip just before you undertake this task - it helps to build self confidence.
2. Be patient, and prepare yourself to spend at least two to three hours to complete the job.
3. Rather let someone hold the radiator, and undo the clips which hold the fan plug in place. You need both hands to undo the fan plug.
4. Just clean the tappet cover properly before it gets removed. I discovered a lot of dust and dirt on the tappet cover.
5. Should you be thinking of using the original tappet cover gasket again, just be careful when you remove the tappet cover. The gasket on my NC came loose quite easy, but there is always a chance that it might stick to the engine block, and break.
6. You should find the correct torque settings for the tappet cover bolts at your Service Manual, but should you not have a good quality torque wrench - just take care not to over tighten the bolts...
I took special care not to spill too much original cooling fluid, and eventually just added less than a cup full of distilled water to the original cooling fluid.
Good luck.
Regards.
Hi E,
been a bit hectic the last while, but here are the observations from my last 24k service on a DCT, which included the valve check. I think so put into perspective, let me comment, on your 6 points above.
1 & 2, having done this more than once, the video is of invaluable help. start to finish with the radiator removal and refitting, takes no more than 45 minutes. 3, i am clearly too stupid to get the clip off, that the fan plugs into, found it much quicker to remove the fans 3 holding bolts (about 10 minutes) 4, indeed give it a very good wipe across the top once the radiator is off 5, both gaskets have been in prim condition upon removal, a smidge of oil on finger to trace the edges before refitting helps 6, the tappet cover bolts, require no more than 11Nm, that is basically hand tight.
Some extra points below
7, as E had mentioned in a previous post, having the sparks out helps with the pressure build up, and made it a breeze to do 8, the block, and sump etc are made from a light aluminium allow, as are many of the bolts, those which hold the tappet cover as well as the sump, be very careful if your bike has been serviced by a dealer, in some cases they can over torque or strip bolts. many are not held in stock and are expensive to replace. The tappet cover bolts, are machined special items and cost about R90, and take about 2 weeks to arrive from Japan. What happens in some cases is that the work is not properly done, work arounds are used, to keep things flowing on the service floor, and so as not to negatively impact the customer/mechanic responsible. another favourite is the oil drainage plug/bolt.
the settings on the second bike were spot on, and no adjustment was required.
Just a finding I had with my econorun bike. It had 300km on the clock when I got it and the valves were out cylinder 2 were all loose. I set them correctly at 1000km service.
The CBR500 I tried had about 4000km on, very different measurements across all the valves, but within spec.
The cbr300 I tested was also very v aried, but within spec.
I'd say also, that when using the aftermarket filters, clean them as often as possible, they all allow some dirt through when efficiency drops off. Telltale sign is the intakes tightening up. Normal on the road usage should show exhaust tightening up.
once you've done it once, it's easy. And thank those little japanese guys in the white suits that it doesn't use shims.
Just as a foloow up, I have the 2016 NC750X for the Economy run and in preparation, I found that all the valves were loose and out of spec. 7000km on the clock.
My2cw, take the time to do them at the first service.
Thanks Slim. I'll have to check mine then as I have done 30 000km already. When I spoke with the Honda service manager at around 24 000km, he told me they don't even check valve clearances this early as it is a waste of money. According to him I would hear the noise if it was out.
I tried the Shell AX7 oil for about 5000kms. It's not a bad oil. I found that the motor seamed a little quieter, and gear changes were less "clunky".
The only issue I experienced was with 2-up, pulling away felt to me as if the clutch was slipping slightly. For most part I rode solo, but the few times I had a pillion I could feel there was a bit of clutch slip.
I have since gone back to the standard Shell HX5. I've decided to stick to the recommended oils, and rather change more frequently.
Because both filters don't cost too much, I've decided to stick to a 5000km oil change.
First of all thanks for the post, it's incredibly useful.
I just finished adjusting my valves using a combination of this post, the youtube video and my service manual but once I put it all back together and started her up it was making a very load clicking sound. The only thing that I can think it can be is which index line on the cylinder head to line up with. The service manual says to use the line towards the end of the cylinder but I'm now thinking that it may be the other one. Could you please clarify this for me.
The index line at the cylinder head can be seen here, right in front of the tip of the sharpened screwdriver - obviously at the left of the hole:
The sharpened screwdriver at the photo is actually directly in line with the index line at the cylinder head - so if you just have a close look, you will see the index line at the photo.
I hope this helps.
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Apart from ensuring that you follow the correct steps to lign the cylinder heads up, you must make sure that the feeler guage is set to the correct measurement and that you let the blades slide through on as flat a plane as possible. Due to the angle that you work at, it is easy to slide the blades at an angle and then make the incorrect assumption that the gap is too small. Good luck.
Decided to change the oil as well. I found a "new" oil that I didn't know they made.
I got this in a 15W - 50 , Semi-Synthetic.
I hope that this oil won't effect my DCT box thou. I know you should avoid Full-synthetic in a DCT.
How did you find the oil? Any issues with the DCT?
I read it must only be mineral oil?
Is semi better than mineral???
I would also like to use the SS oil, if no issues on DCT.
Every how many KM's do you change oil?
Thanx
Just my 2c.
Part mineral and part synthetic should be fine with the DCT. Just avoid full synthetic it's too thin for the gearbox and chances are you will run into trouble is very good.
I will stay with full mineral as I do not do 12k km so oil change within a year then. I do want to try another brand this time around. Will look into Liquo Molly or Motul.
Had mine serviced last week and they used this oil on my NC DCT. I will see how it goes. In sport and manual mode, the shifts seems smoother....no issues thus far. So will see how it goes. About R575 for the oil. (4lt). I did 10k in 4 months. Semi synthetic mineral based oil. Also said they don't use full synthetic as it is to 'thin' for the DCT box and the oil light sometimes comes on. The thing then goes into 'SAFE' mode as the oil indicator is on and you have no gears as it sees the 'oil level as too low'