Valve Adjustment Procedure - Honda NC700X

[EcoRider]

I found this useful video, with step by step instructions at Youtube:

[bonekicker]

EcoRider this is a excellent video and will save members a lot of money, and to do it yourself you know it's been done properly.

[Leon]

Hi, I have not had my valve clearance checked as yet, it this a must? I am on 12500km at the moment but I don't think I can take on this job by myself I'm no handy man!

[Deleted]

It should be done at every major service every 24 k

[royw]

Thanks for the useful info

[EcoRider]

With just more than 39 000 km on my '700's odometer, I got a bit nervous.....my NC never went back for to the agents for the 24 000km service, and the valve clearances has never been checked. So after watching the video (above) several times, I decided to buy a tappet cover gasket, and to check / adjust the valve clearances myself.

I must admit - I was a bit nervous before I started removing the radiator and tapper cover......although I watched the video over and over again, I was fully aware of the fact that I actually needed a bit more info to undertake this task myself....Anyway, I removed the radiator and tappet cover according to the video, and spent quite some time to work out how things really work. Eventually I managed to work out how to adjust the valve clearances properly. Hereby included, some pics with comments, which might be helpful:

Please note - on any given engine, the engine needs to be COLD when valve clearances are checked / adjusted.

Firstly, I bought a new tappet cover gasket at R320......just in case the original gasket would get damaged during removal. Money well wasted - these gaskets are very high quality, the original gasket was still in excellent condition - and has not been replaced:



I battled for quite some time to unplug the fan plug......I initially couldn't see exactly how the plug works, and eventually removed the fan from the radiator - just to have a proper look at it, to see what needs to be done. I then discovered that the center of the bottom part needs to be pressed quite hard to remove the plug:



I then removed the big crankshaft hole cap, as well as the smaller Timing hole cap - as indicated at the video:



I also removed the Camshaft maintenance Cap - located in line with the camshaft, at the other side of the engine:



To check the valve clearances at the no 1 cylinder , the Crankshaft needs to be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE - until the "1 T" mark at the Flywheel aligns with the slot at the right of the timing hole:



The marks at the Camshaft Sprocket can be seen just next to the washer behind the camshaft Nut (which can be seen inside the camshaft maintenance hole at the other side of the engine), and the marks need to be lined up with the mark at the Cylinder Head (see the sharpened screwdriver at the pic which points at the mark at the cylinder head)
If the mark ("1" for no 1 piston and "11" for no 2 piston) at the Camshaft Sprocket is in line with the mark at the cylinder head, it means that the valves clearances (Inlet, as well as Outlet clearances) can be checked / adjusted. Should the "1" (for no 1 piston) mark be facing the opposite side of the mark at the cylinder head, the Crankshaft Nut must be turned 360 degrees COUNTER CLOCKWISE, until the "1 T" mark next to the camshaft nut is in line with the mark at the cylinder head.:



So once the "1 T" mark at the crankshaft pulley and the "1" next to the Camshaft nut lines up as indicated, the Inlet and Outlet valve clearances at the no 1 piston can be checked / adjusted:








To adjust the valve clearances at the no 2 cylinder, the Crankshaft needs to be turned a 3/4 turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE = until the "2 T" at the flywheel is in line with the slot at the right of the timing hole, and the "2" mark next to the camshaft nut is in line with the mark at the cylinder head.


Before final assembling, I applied a thin layer of Copper Grease to the tappet cover bolts:

[royw]

Thanks Ecorider. Informative post.
By the way, were your bikes tappets far out? Did you have to adjust them much?

[EcoRider]

Aug 10, 2015 20:40:44 GMT 2 royw said:

By the way, were your bikes tappets far out? Did you have to adjust them much?

When I checked the clearances, I found the results a bit strange:

1. The clearances at the no 1 piston Outlet Valves were both 100 % correct - 0.28 mm.

2. The clearances at the no 2 piston Outlet valves were both the same, but incorrect - 0.22 mm.

3. The clearances on all four Inlet Valves were all the same, but incorrect - 0.10 mm

[royw]

That is interesting.  

I wonder how that happened?  Strange things

[EcoRider]

I think there might be a possible explanation for this:

When I initially lined the marks on the flywheel and cam sprocket up to do the clearances at the no 1 piston. I noticed that within less than 10 seconds after the marks have been lined up correctly, the marks did not line up correctly any longer. I then realized that the no 2 piston was still under compression, and caused the crankshaft to move slightly.

I then decided to remove both spark plugs, to make sure that the marks will line up 100% when I check or adjust the valve clearances.

I could be completely wrong, but I started thinking about the possibility that the marks probably did not line up 100% during the clearance settings at the factory.
.

[murray]

When i did my valve clearances at 24k service, they were also out, sadly i did not note by how much. Doing the wife's 24k this weekend, so will see what hers are before adjustment.

[EcoRider]

Hi Murray,

It would be great if you could share some personal experience regarding the valve clearance adjustments as well. I think the more we discuss this issue in detail, the better the chance that owners will be able to find valve clearance adjustments quite easy.

In short, to my mind the easiest way to align the marks at the Flywheel and Cam Sprocket correctly, would be to initially focus on doing the no 1 cylinder valve clearances first - "forget" about the rest:

1. Start turning the camshaft Nut counter clockwise - and just have a close look at the marking indicators, but more specific, just focus on trying to find " T 1 ".

2. Once you find " T 1 ", keep on turning the camshaft Nut VERY SLOWLY, because the "1" mark (a horizontal line) at the Flywheel (which needs to be in line with the slot at the hole) is very close.

3. Once the 1 mark (horizontal line) at the flywheel is in line with the slot at the hole - obviously stop turning the flywheel Nut IMMEDIATELY, go to the other side of the engine, and see if the " 1 " mark at the camshaft Sprocket is in line with the mark at the Cylinder Head.
Just note - at this stage chances are 50 / 50 that the "1" mark at the Camshaft Sprocket will NOT be in line with the mark at the Cylinder Head - it might be located at the opposite side of the mark at the Cylinder Head.

Should the "1" mark at the Camshaft Sprocket be facing the opposite side of the mark at the Cylinder Head - just turn the crankshaft Nut 360 degrees counter clockwise again (actually repeat step 1 and 2 as described above).

The marks at the Camshaft Sprocket and Cylinder Head will now line up correctly, and valve clearances at the no 1 cylinder can be adjusted.


Once the no 1 valve clearances are done, bear in mind that the Crankshaft Nut just needs to be turned 270 deg counter clockwise, to reach the next "1" mark (for no 2 piston valve clearances) at the Flywheel:

1. So while the crankshaft Nut gets turned counter clockwise again, actually just focus on finding the " T 2 " indicator at the flywheel (this indicator is very visible). Once " T 2" is visible - turn the crankshaft Nut VERY SLOWLY, because the "1" mark (horizontal line) at the Flywheel is very close.

2. Once the "1" (horizontal line) is in line with the slot - go to the other side of the engine and have a look - the "11" (two lines next to each other) will line up correctly with the mark at the cylinder Head.

Valve clearances at the no 2 cylinder can then be adjusted.


@ Murray - Please feel free to pass comments, or correct me if needed. As mentioned, I think it could be very helpful if we discuss this in detail.

Regards..

[murray]

Hi E, sure will. What I can say basically from last time, is that it can be a very time consuming exercise if its just one person, it helps if someone can help to get the marks lined up. Will certainly remove the sparks before i do it this time, think that added to my issues last time. But will certainly add more info after this weekends service as well as some tips on other items. This is the 24 which is quite a biggie and covers most areas on the bike.

[Richard]

Hi EcoRider,

I'm considering checking my valves at the end of the month.
I've also watched the video, and read the workshop manual, so hopefully it won't be too difficult.

Is there any funny things I should look out for, besides the radiator fan plug that you said was a bit tricky to unplug?

What Anti-Freeze did you buy? We don't have a Honda Dealership here in Kimberley, so I'll be looking at getting an after-market product. But then I suppose I will have to drain the entire system.


Murray, have you done wife's bike yet (re: Valve Adjustment) ?
Got any extra info / tips to add to EcoRider's write-up?

Thanks Guys.

[EcoRider]

Hi Richard, all I can add is:

1.. Just have another close look at the video clip just before you undertake this task - it helps to build self confidence.

2. Be patient, and prepare yourself to spend at least two to three hours to complete the job.

3. Rather let someone hold the radiator, and undo the clips which hold the fan plug in place. You need both hands to undo the fan plug.

4. Just clean the tappet cover properly before it gets removed. I discovered a lot of dust and dirt on the tappet cover.

5. Should you be thinking of using the original tappet cover gasket again, just be careful when you remove the tappet cover. The gasket on my NC came loose quite easy, but there is always a chance that it might stick to the engine block, and break.

6. You should find the correct torque settings for the tappet cover bolts at your Service Manual, but should you not have a good quality torque wrench - just take care not to over tighten the bolts...


I took special care not to spill too much original cooling fluid, and eventually just added less than a cup full of distilled water to the original cooling fluid.

Good luck.

Regards.